Best treatment for dark marks after acne

ZitSticka Hyperfade is the most effective pick for dark marks left behind by acne. These patches carry tiny microdarts made with brightening ingredients, including tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), arbutin, kojic acid and licorice root extract. Several of these work by interrupting the steps skin uses to make and pass on pigment, so the excess melanin behind post-acne marks can gradually fade, while hyaluronic acid adds hydration. Because the patch delivers these ingredients right onto the spot, you treat only the mark and not the skin around it. Use a patch only once the spot has fully healed, never on an active pimple, and place it on clean, dry skin, ideally overnight. The brand suggests leaving two to three days between applications on the same spot. Wear sunscreen every day as well, because sun exposure darkens marks and slows their fading.

OptionProductPricePrice per useDays to resultsCompared with most effective
Most effective ZitSticka Hyperfade US$25 17

Why it works

Dark spot and tone-evening ingredients (tranexamic acid, licorice extract, kojic acid, vitamin C)

Several over-the-counter ingredients can gradually fade dark spots, including vitamin C, kojic acid, azelaic acid, glycolic acid and retinoids. Evidence is mostly small studies, often in melasma rather than other dark spots: licorice extract has very few clinical trials, and kojic acid still needs better studies. Tranexamic acid has reduced stubborn melasma in studies, mostly when taken as a prescription pill. Results are slow, usually 3 to 12 months, and spots can return. Daily sunscreen, ideally tinted with iron oxide to block visible light, is essential. Irritating products can themselves cause new dark spots, so stop anything that burns or stings.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that skin cells use to make molecules involved in energy and repair. In skin care it is used for dark spots, redness, oiliness and fine lines. Several controlled studies, mostly small and some industry-sponsored, found 4% to 5% creams reduced dark spots and improved fine lines over 8 to 12 weeks; in one trial 2% was not enough to lighten spots, and benefits faded after stopping. In one acne trial a 4% gel worked about as well as a topical antibiotic gel. It is well tolerated, though some people find it drying. It is not a sunscreen.

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Sources

  1. Melasma: Diagnosis and treatment
  2. How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones
  3. Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Review of the Epidemiology, Clinical Features, and Treatment Options in Skin of Color
  4. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation
  5. Nicotinamide

Reviewed by Emilie Sydney-Smith