Best night cream for sensitive mature skin

Why it works

Retinol and retinaldehyde (cosmetic retinoids)

Retinol and retinaldehyde are vitamin A ingredients that skin converts into retinoic acid, the active form found in prescription creams. Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover and boost collagen, which can improve fine lines, texture and uneven tone over months. Retinol is roughly ten times weaker than prescription tretinoin. Several trials show benefit, but many were small, lacked a placebo cream, or used products whose retinol content and stability were uncertain. Irritation is the main side effect, and in darker skin it can leave dark marks, so start with a low strength every other night. Use at night with daily sunscreen, and do not use during pregnancy.

Peptides in skincare

Peptides are short chains of amino acids added to creams to signal skin to make more collagen, deliver minerals such as copper, or relax expression lines. A few, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and copper peptides, showed improvements in wrinkles or collagen in small studies. Overall the evidence is weak: studies are small, many results come from patents or supplier data rather than journals, trials often test peptides mixed with other actives, and it is unclear how well many peptides get through the skin barrier. They appear to be well tolerated. Dermatologists note that anti-aging products deliver modest results.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that skin cells use to make molecules involved in energy and repair. In skin care it is used for dark spots, redness, oiliness and fine lines. Several controlled studies, mostly small and some industry-sponsored, found 4% to 5% creams reduced dark spots and improved fine lines over 8 to 12 weeks; in one trial 2% was not enough to lighten spots, and benefits faded after stopping. In one acne trial a 4% gel worked about as well as a topical antibiotic gel. It is well tolerated, though some people find it drying. It is not a sunscreen.